Iguana's are easy to care for and make great first time reptile pets, right? WRONG!!! That cute little Iguana in the pet store, is in truth, very difficult to properly care for and maintain. That cute little 6 inch lizard if cared for and maintained properly, could eventually grow to be 5 or 6 feet long and weigh up to 20 pounds!
It has been estimated, that somewhere between 2-3 Million Green Iguanas are imported into the United States every year! So, you feel that you need a lizard pet and that a green Iguana could be the right pet for you.
More than 2/3 of them are likley to die in their first 6 months to 1 year in captivity!
That's the estimated death of 1-2 million animals!
Of the remaining 1/3 that survive the first year of captivity, their chances are not that much better. It is estimated that nearly half of those animals left will not survive to see their 3rd year! This seems to me, to be pretty bleak and unacceptable odds for a species reported to live 25-35 years in the wild!
Improper diets, caging and lighting.
For years with regards to the dietary requirements of captive reptiles we have listened to the reptile farmer who's primary purpose is to provide animals for food purposes. People who own Iguanas and I mean those who are serious about Iguana's want large animals. While there is nothing wrong with this logic, it does create a few problems. The diets recommended for increasing the growth of Green Iguana's also severely shorten the Iguana's life. Nobody seems to acknowledge the fact that there were few really big, old Iguanas out there. This is not to say that nobody has ever kept an old Iguana, only that they were rare. With a greater understanding of Iguana daily dietary requirements old Iguanas are being seen more often. I receintly recieved a call from a woman worried about her 30 year old Iguana, almost unheard of even now with all the information that is out there and available to Iguana owners! More on diet however will be discussed later.
Buying the actual Iguana is relatively inexpensive and painless. However, the initial purchase of all of the necessary caging and supplies is not cheap. You could pay anywhere from $9.00 to & $100.00 for the initial investment of the Iguana, but the proper enclosure { must be escape proof }, lighting and heat source could run an additional $250.00 to $350.00 or more!
Iguana's MUST have access to natural sunlight for at least 10-15 minutes twice weekly in order to avoid metabolic problems! full spectrum lighting alone is not enough!
With the Iguana in your hands, feel the legs. They should feel muscular and plump not thin and bony, or large and chunky fat. There should be no obvious broken bones, lumps, or swellings. Look closely at the toes and toenails. The toes should be straight and long the nails should be smooth and curved, be careful as they will probably also be very sharp! Look for any obvious signs of problems such as broken or missing toes or nails, or if they are stiff or misshapen. Remember your Iguana will naturally like to climb and misshappen toes and nails can easily become snagged or trapped as the Iguana climbs.
* Feel along the tail, it should feel firm and plump, not hollow or boney. It should be straight and pointed at the end without being curled, kinked or missing the tip. Iguanas can loose their tail if they are frightened or if you attempt to catch your Iguana by the tail. The tail will regenerate it just will not grow to be as long or pretty as it once was. If the tail breaks off of your Iguana all you need to do is keep the area clean and it will heal over quickly. Occasionally the tail is lost too close to the Iguanas body, this can be life threatining as the tail holds a large blood supply, as well as emergency fat stores.
* Feel along the Iguanas sides, the ribs should feel strong, and smooth. None of them should feel broken or damaged. The abdomen should feel soft without obvious masses or lumps.
* Check the vent area to make sure there is no pasted stool or tissue protrusions.
* Check the ears, the tympanic membrane should be intact and free from adhering shed, this is also a favorite place for ticks and mites to hide. There should not be any swelling or buldging of the tympanic membrane or obvious signs of damage or injury.
* Look closely at the eyes, they should appear clear and bright without drainage, swelling or redness. An Iguana during a shed, is not like a snake, in that during a shed the eyes do not cloud over. If the eyes are cloudy the Iguana is most likely suffering from an eye infection. If left untreated such an eye infection could lead to corneal scaring and blindness.
* Have someone help you check the Iguanas mouth. Be alert for swollen or reddened gums, puffiness or any other warning signs of mouth rot or injury. The mouth should appear fairly dry and pink with the teeth slightly imbedded in the gum line.
* The Nostrils should be clear, dry and free from discharge or drainage. Sneezing is also normal in Iguanas and is not a cause for concern unless the nose is runny or you notice thickened mucous.
* Feel along the jaw line and neck, watch out for any lumps or soft spots. feel the bone along the outer edge of the dewlap it should be smooth without any apparent swelling or damage. Some Iguanas don't make it to the petstore with a perfect dewlap, that is OK as long as there is no soft or hard swellings or reddened areas that could signal the presense of an infection.
* Closely examine the Iguanas skin, it should appear free from damage, Mites or Ticks without any unusual white spots, Hot rock or thermal burns. Spines should be strong and there should not be layers of unshed skin on them. Some skin damage is OK as long as the area is well healed and their is no sign of infection or abcess.
* A healthy Iguana will frequently lick with its tongue as it walks and explores its surroundings. An Iguana that does not do this is most likley ill.
* When you put the Iguana back down, watch how he walks or runs around in its enclosure. The gait should be steady and balanced not shuffling or unsteady. He should not stumble while he walks.
* Ask what they have been feeding him and when he last ate, as well as what it was that was he had eaten- if they have been feeding a varied diet. This will give you some idea as to his nutritional status. Poor nutrition will make an animal less resistant to disease.
* If there is stool (poop) in the cage, be aware that it should appear firm and brownish or dark greenins, with a small amount of hard whitish colored urates (urine). There should be no evidence of diarrhea or constipation. Diarrhea leads to dehydration and electrolyte losses. If the stool does not appear normal... do not buy the Iguana. He could very well be sick and in need of Veterinary care.
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