Chapter 2
Taken from "A Savannah in the Family"
Chapter 2
SELECTION OF YOUR
NEW MONITOR PET
It is always preferable to obtain a young calm animal, one that watches you intently, without aggression or cowering in the far corner of the cage. Try to avoid older larger animals if they are not already tame. These animals should be avoided by the inexperienced reptile owner, due to the fact that they can inflict severe damage that may require bandaging, stitches or possibly even broken bones!!!
NEVER BUY A SICK ANIMAL! Even if it is at a discount, because "It Needs You". This type of thinking will only leave you with a broken heart and empty pockets. Donšt forget that empty cage! Buying a sick or unhealthy animal not only insures a large Veterinary bill, but this also allows those that own and run unscrupulous and uncaring Pet Shops to continue to sell sick or sub-standard reptiles, because "Somebody Will Feel Sorry For It And Buy It" even though "It Will Die Soon Anyway!" These unscrupulous shops will continue to do business with blatant disrespect for their customers needs as well as the needs of the poor animals they sell! It is the few unscrupulous dealers and Pet Shops that make it hard for the many caring and responsible Dealers and Pet Shops that are out there!
What should be of a more important concern is, that the sick animals they sell can be a source of infection for yourself and your family! Be careful about your selected pet and buy only from reputable dealers!
It is always recommended that you do the research necessary to insure that you find a qualified Reptile Veterinarian. Before you bring your new Monitor home. Some of the more reputable Pet Shops will help you with this by offering a low cost or free veterinary exam with any animal purchase over a specified dollar amount. Make sure however that the veterinarian they recommend is knowledgeable about the special needs of reptiles. It is ALWAYS RECOMMENDED THAT YOU TAKE ANY NEWLY ACQUIRED ANIMAL TO THE VETERINARIAN FOR AN EXAM BEFORE YOU INTRODUCE IT TO ANY OTHER PETS YOU MAY HAVE. The new arrival should be quarantined from any animals already established in your home. Especially if you own other reptiles. This quarantine should be for a period of from one to three months preferably in a separate room away from the other reptiles.
During routine care and cleaning, always take care of any newly acquired animals last. This is to avoid any possible spread of infection from the new animal to your other pets. Donšt forget to ALWAYS wash your hands thoroughly before, in between each reptile and after handling reptiles, or any other pet for that matter! This will help to avoid any possible spread of any disease that may be contagious from the reptile to yourself, or to your family. Wear rubber gloves when cleaning and disinfecting cages. You can now use any of the antibacterial dish soaps to effectivly clean and disinfect cages and supplies rather than the bleach solution that has been recomended in the past, a 10% bleach solution if used as a disinfectant must be rinsed thoroughly as it has been reported to be linked to the development of cancer in reptiles. Donšt forget to disinfect the sink and countertop where you washed pet and reptile items this is to prevent possible contamination to yourself or your family.
A NOTE ABOUT SALMONELLA
Salmonella is the bacteria that is responsible for "Food Poisoning". Recently, in the news, Salmonella has been connected with reptiles. The current information suggests that newly purchased reptiles could pose a serious health risk to owners and to other persons that come into contact with reptiles that have been recently imported. Recently the Green Iguana has been the one to receive the most attention in this area. However any newly imported, or recently acquired reptile could pose a health risk, if proper precautions are not observed.
* Any animal that appears sluggish or sick should be taken to the Veterinarian immediately for evaluation!
* All food preparation areas should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected both before and after use to avoid any possible Salmonella or other Bacterial contamination.
* Remember that uncooked poultry is almost always infected with Salmonella bacteria. You may actually have a higher risk of contracting Salmonella from Poultry, than you do of contacting it from your reptiles. Be careful for the health of both yourself and your pets.
There will be more information about Salmonella in the section on Reptile Diseases, including an informative article reprinted in it's entirety with the permission of Dr. Douglas Mader, who writes the Veterinarian articles for Reptiles Magazine.
Choosing a Healthy Animal
A few words about Pet Shops and Dealers
When you first walk into the pet shop where you plan to buy your new Monitor. Look closely at all of the reptile cages to see how they are kept. If the cages are poorly maintained, the reptiles will also be poorly maintained and probably stressed. Stressed animals, just like stressed people, are at a greater risk for disease. The ordeals of capture, quarantine and shipping are stressful enough to the animal without adding to it, by poor conditions and overcrowding.
There are many good Pet Shops and Dealers who are genuinely concerned about the animals they sell. Many of these shops even go to the added expense of maintaining natural appearing enclosures for the animals they sell. They do this in order to reduce stress, they take great care to insure that the animals they maintain receive the care required and that the special needs are met for each species that they maintain. These shops take extra care to insure that the enclosures are not overcrowded. I feel that animals that are maintained in this manner are less stressed and have an easier time adapting to a captive lifestyle. I always try to do business with Pet Shops which appear to care for the animals that they sell. I feel that these animals are usually more healthy than animals that have been exposed to excessive stresses, caused by being left in overcrowded conditions in a dark corner of the store.
If You Notice That The Reptiles Are Poorly Maintained, Go Somewhere Else To Buy Your Pet!
Always look for a healthy, robust animal with an alert disposition. One that watches you intently and does not appear to be overly aggressive or slap the cage with its tail. Ask the store personnel to take the Monitor out of the cage for you.
How does it react to your hands?
* Does it calmly climb on? This is the best possible reaction. Don't expect this unless you are dealing with an already tame animal.
* Does it try to squirm out of your hand? Good.
* Does it turn around to try to bite? More difficult to work with
but not a hopeless case.
* Does it try to defecate? Very common so be prepared for it.
* Does it try to jump up to bite before it can be picked up? -CAUTION- Before you give up on this animal. First try to determine why it is that he is exhibiting this type of behavior, he could just be hungry. If hunger is not the reason for the behavior then you should use caution, if this animal is to be considered for purchase. An inexperienced owner could easily be injured by such an animal and might even need a few stitches. Many Monitors will instinctively lunge at anything that moves with extreme enthusiasm in anticipation of a meal. Do not confuse this feeding behavior with aggression. If he calms down quickly once he is handled, his enthusiasm was probably for an anticipated meal.
An animal that exhibits this type of aggressive attitude is the hardest to deal with, and should not be considered for purchase by the first time owner. Many with this attitude may never become totally "Tame or Trustable!" However, with a lot of work, patience (and bloody fingers if youšre not very careful!) For the right person in the right circumstances, even one of these "Bronchos" may turn around and become an exceptional pet.
I once purchased a young Black and White Tegu (similar to a monitor) who was so nasty that even the pet shop personnel were afraid of her! She was the perfect example of what a first time owner should avoid! She was so viscous, that when anyone would attempt to do anything with her cage she would lunge at them standing on her hind legs, open mouthed! She was bent on destroying anyone or anything that would dare to enter her territory! Six months later she had become calm and trustable in most situations.
I still fully expect this type of behavior in her cage, although she usually behaves herself. If she were to get loose in the car, I would also expect that she would go out of her way to find the most defensible place she can, and do everything possible to make retrieving her very difficult and bloody on my part. In controlled situations, she has even sometimes suprised me as to how "Tame" she has become. On a recent reptile exhibit that I was involved in, a 4 year old child managed to sneak in behind me and was attempting to pry the Tegu's mouth open to insert her fingers! When I realized the little girl was there, I scolded the her and praised K'Ehleyr (the Tegu) for her good behavior! She not only did not bite the child's fingers off, but she just closed her eyes and put up with the abuse! I don't expect to ever be that lucky with her again.
PHYSICAL EXAMINATION
With the monitor in your hands, feel the legs. They should feel muscular and plump not thin and bony, there should be no obvious broken bones, lumps, or swellings. Look closely at the toes and toenails. The toes should be straight and long the nails should be smooth and curved, be careful as they will probably also be very sharp! Look for any obvious signs of problems such as broken or missing toes or nails, or if they are stiff or misshapen.
* Feel along the tail, it should feel firm and plump, not hollow or boney. It should be straight and pointed at the end without being curled, kinked or missing the tip.
* Feel along the Monitor's sides, the ribs should feel strong, smooth and none of them should feel broken or damaged. The abdomen should feel soft without obvious masses or lumps. Typically in captivity a Savannah Monitor might appear fat with a hot water bottle like abdomen, this however is a sign of obesity. A Savannah should appear to be well fed without appearing fat. Fat pads in the abdomen are not as readily used by the Monitor as tail fat and can, in some cases still be seen clearly even in severely malnourished Monitors. Even in cases where all the tail fat has been used up! A plump tail is a better indicator of good body weight.
* Check the vent area to make sure there is no pasted stool or tissue protrusions.
* Check the ears, the tympanic membrane should be intact and free from adhering shed, this is also a favorite place for ticks and mites to hide.
* Look closely at the eyes, they should appear clear and bright without drainage, swelling or redness. A Monitor is not like a snake, in that during a shed the eyes do not cloud over. If the eyes are cloudy the Monitor is most likely suffering from an eye infection. If left untreated such an eye infection could lead to corneal scaring and blindness.
* Have someone help you check the Monitors mouth. Be alert for swollen or reddened gums, puffiness or any other warning signs of mouth rot. The mouth should appear fairly dry and pink with the teeth slightly imbedded in the gum line.
* The Nostrils should be clear, dry and free from discharge or drainage.
* Feel along the jaw line and neck, watch out for any lumps or soft spots.
* Closely examine the Monitors skin it should appear free from damage, Mites or Ticks without any unusual white spots, Hot rock or thermal burns. Thermal injuries will be discussed in a later chapter.
* A healthy Monitor will frequently flick its long forked tongue in and out of its mouth as it explores its surroundings.
* When you put the Monitor back down, watch how he walks around its enclosure. The gait should be steady and balanced not shuffling or unsteady. He should not stumble while he walks.
* Ask what they have been feeding him and when he last ate, as well as what it was that was he had eaten- if they have been feeding a varied diet. This will give you some idea as to his nutritional status. Poor nutrition will make an animal less resistant to disease.
* If there is stool in the cage, be aware that it should appear firm and brownish with a small amount of hard whitish colored urates. There should be no evidence of diarrhea or constipation. Pale fatty appearing stools could indicate a liver dysfunction or possible liver damage. Diarrhea leads to dehydration and electrolyte losses. If the stool does not appear normal... do not buy the Monitor.
He could very well be sick and in need of Veterinary care.
Note; in the wild, Savannah Monitors frequently go for months without food, it is at this time that the abdominal fat is used to sustain the lizard. Tail fat is used up under normal metabolism only after all of the abdominal fat stores are used up. In captivity a sick monitor will use up the tail fat first, and may not be able to use the available abdominal fat. Under these conditions the Monitor may die of starvation while there are still numerous fat reserves still in the abdomen.
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